by Judith Segal, Food Editor
by Judith Segal, Food Editor
The Jewish people generally are divided into two groups, those who descend from ancestors who had lived in Europe, known as the “Ashkenazi” and those whose families remained in Arabia, Africa and Iberia, called the “Sephardi.”
The cuisine that most Americans consider “Jewish” actually is composed of dishes brought to the States by European Jews who arrived in a large migration—several million people—at the beginning of the 20th century. In fact, most of these dishes are common to all of the citizenry of the parts of Europe in which the Jews had lived, not just to Jewish families.
Yet there is an entirely separate cuisine that, though less familiar, is every bit as delicious.
Claudia Roden, a prolific and respected cookbook author, has written THE BOOK OF JEWISH FOOD, the definitive work on the Jewish culinary arts, concentrating more on Sephardic dishes.
As Ms. Roden explains, dishes that broadly are called “Sephardic” are composed of specialties that, variously, originated in Iraq, Persia [Iran], Syria, in the North African countries of Morocco, Algeria and Libya, plus Iberia and Italy, as well as Turkey, Greece and the Balkans.
This proves, again, that what the world considers Jewish cooking actually is the cooking of a people dispersed. As each group made its separate way through the world, it developed its own distinctive repertoire, always incorporating the food traditions--and the common ingredients--of the region in which the population lived.
“Harosets” is a paste that commemorates the mortar that the Jewish slaves used in building the pyramids of Egypt, and eating it is a mandated part of every Passover Seder. The Jews of Eastern Europe made it out of walnuts and apples, because walnuts and apples were easily available where they were living. In Egypt, where Ms. Roden grew up, the harosets was required to look like silt.
Sephardic cooking is delicious in a voluptuous way that differs from the Ashkenazic. It relies more on including numerous spices, leading to a more complex and intense flavoring, than European cuisine does; in addition, adding dried fruits to entrees is common.* These methods trace back directly to the cooking of the Arab countries.
Though all Jews celebrate Passover the same way, by eschewing any leavened foods, there is, again, a distinction between the Ashkenazi and the Sephardi traditions. The most significant difference is that, during Passover, the Sephardi do not eliminate beans or rice from their diets. Sephardim should consult their rabbi regarding rice and legumes.
For an intriguing change of pace, and a delicious one, try a Sephardic menu for your Seder.
*Dried fruit packages should bear Passover certification
|
Dayenu Soup*
Claudia Roden credits this recipe to Nedelia Tedeschi of Turin, Italy. 3 pints of chicken stock Bring the stock to a boil and add the matzoh pieces. Simmer about 1/2 hour, until the matzoh is soft and bloated. In a mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks with the cinnamon and five tablespoons of cold water. Gradually add the beaten eggs to the soup, stirring constantly. (Adapted from THE BOOK OF JEWISH FOOD). |
|||
|
SAUTEED EGGPLANT SLICES
Ms. Roden calls eggplant (“aubergine”) the most popular vegetable of the Sephardic Jews. While the vegetable is Arabic in origin, it was the Jews who, on their flight from the Inquisition, carried it throughout Iberia and into Southern Europe. She suggests a simple saute of the eggplant. Cut the vegetable into 1/2 inch thick slices and gash with a knife. Generously salt the slices and place on a rack for at least 30 minutes. Rinse under running cold water and squeeze dry on clean dish towels. This step keeps the eggplant from absorbing an excess of oil. This is particularly important during Passover, when one cannot coat the slices with flour or breadcrumbs prior to cooking. Add about 1/4 inch of good olive oil to a large skillet and heat. Put the eggplant slices into the pan in a single layer and cook until golden brown, turning once. Pierce with knife to make sure that the inside is cooked and tender. Repeat as necessary. |
|||
|
Syrian Haroset
This recipe is from a friend who is of Ashkenazic descent—but she received it, in turn, from one of her neighbors who is a member of the large Syrian-Jewish community of Brooklyn. And so evolves the Jewish cuisine of the Diaspora. Peel oranges carefully and reserve the peel. Discard the white pith, which is bitter. Chop the orange sections. Drain the dates thoroughly. Mash them well; a food processor does this task most successfully. Stir in the orange peel and the orange sections, the cinnamon and the wine. Mix to a smooth paste. Mix in the almond pieces last, by hand; do not use the food processor. Yields approximately 1 quart. |
|||
| A “tagine” is the classic stew of North Africa, taking its name from the pot in which it is prepared. A tagine can be made with chicken, beef or lamb as its main ingredient, with lamb considered to be the most desirable. The flavorings, sweet and spicy, along with the dried fruits, trace back directly to the Arabic cuisine of earlier millennia. Since this adaptation includes sweet potatoes, it avoids the dilemma of what starch to include during Passover. Beef Tagine 3 pounds top-round beef, cut into 3/4 inch cubes 1/3 cup vegetable oil, preferably olive oil 3 cups good chicken stock 1 medium-large to large onion, coarsely chopped 4 teaspoons ground cumin 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground ginger (optional) ground black pepper to taste, approximately 2 teaspoons 1/2 cup dried apricot halves 3 cups carrots, cut into 1-inch cubes 4 cups sweet potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch cubes 3 cups zucchini ("courgettes"), scrubbed and cut into 1-inch cubes 4 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 1-inch squares 1/2 cup raisins (optional) Dry the beef pieces well on paper towels; this step is particularly important during Passover, when one cannot lightly flour the pieces to seal the edges. Divide into three sections. In a Dutch oven, heat 1/3 of the oil, about 2 tablespoons. Add 1/3 of the beef and brown well, turning once, for about 10 minutes. Remove from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside. Repeat with the remaining oil and beef. After browning all of the meat, set aside and drain all of the fat from the pan. Return the beef to the Dutch oven. Add the broth, the onion and all of the spices to the pot. Bring the liquid to a gentle boil immediately reduce the heat. Cover the pot and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the carrots and the sweet potatoes to the pot and simmer for another 30 minutes. Test vegetables and meat for doneness by inserting a knife. The knife should easily slip through; otherwise, simmer for 15 minutes more, then test again. Seep the dried apricot halves in very hot—but not boiling--water and set aside. After the stew ingredients are fully cooked, stir in the zucchini and bell pepper pieces. Allow to simmer for 5 minutes. Drain the apricot pieces well. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the drained apricot halves and the raisins, if desired. |
|||