Some of the very observant will eschew matzah meal in recipes, due to the concern that the meal may become wet and therefore begin to rise. Such a "leavening" would seem to contradict the central prohibition that controls foods served during Passover, commemorating that the Hebrews' bread had no time to rise during their hurried departure from Egypt.

The "Sephardim" (the Jews of the Mediterranean and Iberia) consider certain foods "Pesachdick" (kosher for Passover) that the "Ashkenazim" (Jews descended from the population that lived in Europe) forbid. The Sephardim find rice, and legumes such as peas, acceptable, while the Ashkenazim do not.

During Passover, the majority of the world's Jews simply avoid foods made with flour or grains. A number of cookbooks offer delicious solutions to the complicated religious requirements of cooking for this holiday.

The New York Times Passover Cookbook is definitely one of the best of such books; as the title implies, it may be the definitive work. The volume offers hundreds of recipes, each kosher-for-Passover. Most of the great Jewish cooks in America have contributed one or more dishes, often with personal reminiscences about their own holiday celebrations, and personal favorites.

As the expression goes, these are not your mother's Passover recipes; we're talking about Wolfgang Puck's Moroccan Carrot Salad and Andree Abramoff's Fish Dumplings in Tumeric Sauce. Abramoff is an Egyptian Jew with a respected restaurant, and these fish balls are deep-fried.

Still, adaptations of traditional American Jewish favorites, common to that larger population descended from the Jews of Europe, are not neglected by The New York Times Passover Cookbook. Barry Wine contributes "Gefilte Fish in Beggar's Purses," a Pesachdik variation of the "Caviar in Beggar's Purses" that he made famous. The Margareten family, of the famous matzoh manufacturers "Horowitz-Margareten," supply a foolproof apple "kugel" (pudding) recipe.

Desserts, too, are superlative, with Barbara Tropp, one of San Francisco's leading Chinese chefs (but originally from New Jersey) sharing a Pecan-Ginger Torte. Renowned baker Maida Heatter gets the credit for a superb Chocolate-Walnut Torte.

The New York Times Passover Cookbook, edited by Linda Amster is a beautiful work with dozens of full-color photographs. It's hard to believe that someone could write a 400 page treatise on Gefilte Fish, but Jayne Cohen has done exactly this in The Gefilte Variations. Of course, with 400 pages, there's got to be more than gefilte fish.

Indeed, gefilte fish turns out to be merely a jumping off point, though there are a half dozen versions of it, including Salmon Gefilte Fish. More accurately, Cohen has fashioned a full-service Jewish cookbook with dishes from all over the Diaspora, the emphasis being on the more traditional American- Jewish recipes originally from Eastern Europe.

The Gefilte Variations have a separate section for Passover. Even in the rest of the book, a surprisingly large percentage of the recipes turn out to be completely kosher-for-Passover.

The Gefilte Variations is a major scholarly work, a treatise beautifully executed, with touching anecdotes, thought-provoking quotes, and fascinating photographs. This book is a true labor of love.

Written by Frances R. AvRutnick, a Rabbi's wife, The Complete Passover Cookbook also is a primer on the religious laws involving this holiday, with thorough directions how to comply with those laws. The Complete Passover Cookbook offers detailed instructions on how to prepare the home, and for the "Seder" dinner ritual itself.

Though the hundreds of recipes are basically of Eastern European origin, this one book could take a cook through all of the meals of the 8 day holiday, beyond the festive Seders. The print quality, bluntly, is not as good as it should be. At the same time, however, this is the least expensive of the books discussed here, and the most comprehensive in terms of the non-cooking requirements of the holiday.

Marlene Sorosky's Fast & Festive Meals for the Jewish Holidays is one of the best Jewish cookbooks ever. This lovely book covers all of the holidays, with their accompanying classic dishes. While the emphasis, again, is on the European-Jewish favorites, there are some interesting deviations; Sweet Potato Latkas, easily adapted to a Passover diet, is one such example.

The Passover section is large and wonderful, and desserts such as Canteloupe, Kiwi and Strawberry Tart, or Coconut Chiffon Cheese-cake, are absolutely luscious. Again, there are lovely recipes in other parts of this book, too, that are well suited for Passover, such as Potato-Carrot Pancake. Generously illustrated with full color photographs, Fast & Festive Meals for the Jewish Holidays is a book to be savored all year long.

Taken together, these books prove that Passover is no excuse for eating poorly!

The Complete Passover Cookbook by Frances AvRutnick. Copyright 1981. Published by Jonathan David Publishers, Middle Village, New York. Hardcover; 420 pp; $19.95.

Fast & Festive Meals for the Jewish Holidays

by Marlene Sorosky.

Copyright 1997. Published by William Morrow, New York. Hardcover; 223 pp; $29.95.

The Gefilte Variations

by Jayne Cohen.

Copyright 2000. Published by Scribner, New York, under license by Simon & Schuster. Hardcover, 416 pp; $35.00.

The New York Times Passover Cookbook

edited by Linda Amster, Introduction by Joan Nathan. Copyright 1999. Published by William Morrow, New York. Hardcover; 328 pp; $25.00.

JOYCE GOLDSTEIN'S PICKLED SALMON Ms. Goldstein has written several books celebrating the synergistic influences of Jewish cooking and Mediterranean cuisines. The New York Times Passover Cookbook reprinted the following recipe from her book Back to Square One. 2 cups Passover vinegar 1 1/2 cups water 6 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 pounds salmon fillet, bones removed 2 tablespoons mixed pickling spices 6 bay leaves 2 medium yellow onions, sliced 1/4 inch thick Bring the vinegar, water, sugar and salt to a boil. Let this mixture cool completely. Cut the salmon into pieces that are approximately 1 inch by 2 inches. Use a ceramic or glass bowl. In the bowl, place a layer of the salmon pieces, then a sprinkling of pickling spices and bay leaves, a layer of onion slices, then more salmon, spices and onions respectively, until all have been placed in the bowl. Pour the cooled marinade over the fish. Cover the container and refrigerate for 3 or 4 days. Serve the salmon chilled, but not ice cold, along with the marinated onions. The salmon will hold in the refrigerator 3 to 4 days after pickling. Serves 10 – 12.